Just Digital Photography Digital Photography – Digital Cameras Tips & Techniques

30Jan/100

Lighting for Video






If you're wanting to shoot a well-lit video, there are two forms of light to consider.

LIGHTING 101:

Light comes in two basic categories:

• Diffused

• Direct

Direct light is what you have on a sunny day.

Diffused light is what you get on a cloudy day. The clouds act as a diffusion filter.

Think back to elementary school science. Light rays do not bend. If you point a flashlight, the light won't bend around the corner of the building, you'd have to move the flashlight to see the side of the building.

Direct light (sunny day) creates deep, harsh shadows that have distinct edges.

Diffused light, (cloudy day) can be very bright but completely shadow less.

Generally speaking, diffused light is best for simple video production.

The easiest way to transform a direct light into a diffused one is by bouncing it off the ceiling or wall. Do this by simply placing the light near the wall (or ceiling) and pointing it toward the wall, not your subject. The light bounces off the wall and is diffused nicely. (Don't get it too close though, I once burned a guy's wallpaper cuz a 500 watt tungsten lamp get purdy hot. Oops.)

Bouncing a light is the quick, cheap, no hassle way to do it. However, if you want to spend money and achieve better effects, professional photographic lighting uses tools like soft boxes, umbrellas, cloths and filters to produce diffused light.

The only drawback to diffusing your light is that as you diffuse, you lose intensity. Diffusion is so desired though most people accept that trade-off. Have you ever wondered why they bother to paint the inside of most light bulbs white? The answer is that the white paint diffuses the light and makes it more pleasing to the eye. On top of that, people usually add a lamp shade for even more diffusion.

Quality lighting is key to quality video production. That doesn't mean it needs to be difficult.

Digital SLR Cameras - Lenses

28Jan/100

Five Simple Tips to Create a Superstar Headshot






Have you ever checked out your competition's website? How does their headshot look? How does it compare to yours?

Many entrepreneurs are so focused on the products or services that they sell, that they forget about the importance of a good headshot to help promote their business. If you want to have the leading edge and trump the competition, you need to look credible and professional.

Be honest. Is it time to update your headshot? Confused about how to make your better? Then check out these 5 simple Tips to create a super star headshot!

1. Get a Professional Headshot
Too many people have their photo taken their photo outside in front of a tree. This looks amateur. You need to hire a professional photographer to take your picture inside a studio with flattering lighting.

2. Shoot from above
For one of your shots, try sitting down low and have the photographer get up on a ladder and shoot down. This might sound strange and feel even stranger while it's happening, but it looking up makes you lift your chin and the shot can be very flattering.

3. Don't put your hands in the shot
There is nothing more cheesy than the tired old pose of your hand under your chin. Keep your hands out of the shot, so the focus is on your face, for a photo that lets your personality shine through.

4. Have your make up applied by a professional
If you think you don't need make-up, think again. (even men need a little powder). A professional make-up artist understand photographic lighting and will make you look more energetic, more attractive and more confident, guaranteed.

5. Don't Sit Still
While the photographer is shooting, try tilting your head a little, lift and lower your chin, angle your shoulders slightly. Keep trying new positions. A good photographer should direct you to do these things, but if not, you want to make sure you keep things moving for a fresh, natural and warm (not posed) shot.

Flipping Houses - Real Estate Investments
23Jan/100

Artificial Lighting Can Duplicate Most Natural Light Situations For Close-up Photographs






Ever wonder how the photography pros seem to get those perfect close-ups of flowers, a face or an otherwise shaded object?

The photographers world is one of perfecting an art form. It's about capturing the subject in the proper light. It is not about delivering a real-life image. It's about capturing impactful color, texture and shape when engaging the camera shutter. The photographers craft is image media art.

On your next field trip to the park or on a hike into the interior of a forest, take your flash unit and an off camera shoe cord. The shoe cord is usually a curly flash extension cord that connects your camera flash shoe to your flash unit and allows you to hold the flash unit up to 3 feet away from your camera. Hold the flash unit to the right or to the left of your subject. Hold it high and over the top of your subject or, even have the light source come from below or behind your subject. Your flash can be positioned anywhere in a virtual 3 foot sphere around your camera. This provides you countless number of ways to simulate light and shadow for your close-up, still and portrait photography.

Bring along a friend. Have them hold a flash reflector, a white cloth or a reflective surface (like the one used in car windshields to reduce direct sunlight and heat buildup). Use this sun reflective surface with existing sunlight or your off camera flash. Now you have multiplied your possibilities for soft or diffused lighting for your images.

Create your own sun for those close-ups, stills and portraits. Just bring your:

1) Flash unit

2) Off Camera Shoe Cord

3) Reflective Surface for diffused lighting

4) A Friend


You no longer need to wait for that 'right light' to capture an awesome photographic image. Experiment with artificial light and you will be delighted with the results. Here Comes Your Sun.

Woodworking Tools

22Jan/100

Lighting for Portrait Photography (Part 1): Behavior of Light






Light is the raw material of a photographer. Much as the painter works with paint and the sculptor works with stone, the photographer works with light. This analogy is not precise however, because as the painter and sculptor work with actual material substances, the photographer works with a form of energy. Understanding the behavior of this form of energy that we call light, is foundational to your success as a portrait photographer. A painter may not need to know the chemical and physical properties of each component of her paints, but she must completely understand how to blend the different colors, and how the paints behave as she applies them to the canvas. Just as a painter or sculptor must gain masterful insight into the behavior of the raw materials of their arts, so must the portrait photographer gain a keen understanding of the behavior of light.

The first prerequisite for photography is light being emitted from a source. Just think about it, without light, photography is impossible. Light may be emitted from a natural source, such as the sun, or from an artificial source, such as strobes or constant light sources. In 1931, the strobe was developed for use in still photography by Harold Edgerton [http://www.edgerton.org/biography.html], an electrical engineer from MIT. Today, the strobe is by far the most used light source in the portrait studio. Advantages of strobe lighting for portrait studio photography include: reasonably precise control of light intensity and light color temperature, low heat generation compared to a constant light source, and low power consumption for the amount of light output.

The most important property of light to the portrait photographer is the light's intensity or brightness. There are several ways of controlling the intensity of light striking the subject. In the studio, the power supply of modern strobes may be adjusted. The strobes may be positioned farther away from the subject. Outdoors, you may take advantage of cloud cover or the overhang of a tree or building, or even the time of day, to control the intensity of the incident light on the subject. These methods are effective for controlling the average (overall) light intensity of the composition. Many devices have been developed to control the relative intensities of light (specular highlights) of specific areas within a composition. Devices such as scrims, gobos, snoots, grid spots, and barn doors, are commonly used to partially block, direct, or otherwise control the relative light intensities within a composition.

Another property of light of great importance to the portrait photographer is the light's color temperature. Pure white light is the result of an equally balanced mixture of the three primary colors: red, green, and blue. In different lighting conditions (e.g. cloudy versus full sun), the proportions of the color mixture may vary. Normally, the human brain automatically compensates for this, and you do not notice the difference as you leave one lighting condition and enter another. Film can not make this same automatic compensation. Therefore, differences in color temperature must be manually adjusted for by the photographer. Color temperature of various light conditions is commonly stated in degrees Kelvin. There are three standard color temperature rated films commonly used by photographers. "Daylight" film is designed to be exposed by 5500K light, and "indoor" film is designed to be exposed by 3400K light, or 3200K light for professional "indoor" film. For a greater degree of control over the white balance when using film, color correction filters are used. Most if not all digital SLR cameras have a white balance adjustment to electronically compensate for changing color temperatures encountered in various light conditions. In digital photography, when shooting in RAW format, the color temperature can easily be corrected in Photoshop.

A third property of light that is very important to the portrait photographer is contrast. A light source has high contrast if its rays all strike the subject at approximately the same angle. A light source that is diffuse has low contrast, because its rays strike the subject from many different angles. High contrast light sources produce shadows with a hard edge, while low contrast light sources produce shadows with a soft edge. This is because with a high contrast light source, where the rays all approach the subject from approximately the same angle, no light enters the edge of the shadow and the shadow's edge remains distinct. A light source's relative contrast is generally determined by the size of the light source and its distance from the subject. The sun on a clear day is relatively small in our sky, and therefore it is a high contrast light source producing hard edged shadows. On a cloudy day, the light from the same sun is spread out and diffuse. Effectively the entire sky becomes a low contrast light source, producing very soft edged shadows. In the studio, we have many light modifiers available to us, to control the effective size of the light source and thereby control the level of contrast. For any given size of a light source, as it is positioned farther and farther away from the subject we see that it effectively becomes smaller and smaller, yielding higher and higher levels of contrast, albeit lower and lower intensity.

Light acts on any subject it may strike. This much may be obvious. But every subject also acts on any light that strikes it. A subject may act on light in three distinct ways: refraction, absorption, and reflection. Refraction is the bending of light waves as they pass through a transparent material such as glass. In fact, the refractive property of glass is what is manipulated within the photographic lens, to focus an image onto the film (or digital image sensor). Absorption is the process whereby certain materials convert light energy into some other form of energy (usually heat). The absorptive property of a black painted foam core board may be used by the photographer to selectively "subtract" light, so that it does not bounce around the studio in an undesirable way.

Of the three ways a subject may act on the light striking it, reflection is the most important to the photographer. Reflection is an abrupt change in the direction of propagation of light waves that strikes the surface of the subject. In direct reflection, the light rays bounce from a smooth surface at the same angle at which they hit it. The intensity of the direct reflection mirrors the intensity of the light source. Glare, such as observed on the surface of a body of water, is a polarized direct reflection. Unlike direct reflection however, glare reflection always has a lower intensity than the light source producing it. Glare reflection may be controlled or eliminated by using a polarizing filter. Diffuse reflections occur when light from a source is reflected equally in all directions by the surface it strikes. In theory, diffuse reflections are the same intensity no matter what angle they are viewed from. The intensity of a diffuse reflection increases as the light source is moved closer to the subject. The Inverse Square Law says that the intensity of the diffuse reflected light is inversely proportional to the square of the distance between the light source and the subject. This implies, a light source at any given distance from the subject will light the subject with an intensity that is four times greater than the same light source moved to twice the distance from the subject.

An understanding of the behavior of light is a prerequisite to understanding how to control the light. We see that light can act on any subject it strikes. Intensity or brightness, color temperature, and contrast are the three properties that are of most concern to the portrait photographer. Any subject also acts on light that strikes it, either through refraction, reflection, absorption, or some combination of the three. In portrait photography, light is controlled to achieve optimum overall exposure of a composition, to develop of specular highlights, to reveal and enhance textures, forms and color saturation, and to build a three dimensional perspective. In Part 2 of this article, the fundamentals of controlling the overall exposure of a composition using the camera are discussed. Until then, good day and happy clicking.

Steve Barnes is a professional portrait photographer, free lance writer, and co-owner of Hayley Barnes Photography, in League City, Texas. Please visit his website at: Hayley Barnes Photography. Elegant portrait photographer. Children, Families, High School Seniors, and Quincea

21Jan/100

Digital Photography Tips – 3 Solid Lighting Tips






I've been taking photos since I was old enough to own my first Polaroid camera about 40 years ago. I remember how horrible the quality was. Well, we have come a long way since those days. Technology has taken the world of photography, especially digital photography, to a whole new level. However, as great as the technology is, nothing can make up for poor lighting, no matter how great the camera. I, and many others, have learned this the hard way. This article is going to give you a few solid tips on lighting that will help make your digital photography experience one that won't be one of frustration and disappointment.

The first thing you need to understand about lighting is where to place it, if you're using artificial lighting. Never place the lighting in back of the subject. This is going to result in terrible glare in your photos. You want the lighting to be in back of the photographer or off to the sides of the subject, slightly in front. The more lighting the better. A couple of 500 watt halogen lamps should be more than enough to do the trick.

You need to be careful of shadows. Too much lighting can produce too much shadow...not enough and your subject could end up in the dark. This is going to be a trial and error sort of thing. Unfortunately, with digital cameras, what you often see in the view finder is usually brighter than the finished product that you end up with. So you will have to take a couple of test photos to make sure the lighting is just the way you want it. The good thing about digital cameras is that there is no film to waste. Just delete your test shots after they are finished.

If you are using backdrops, try to choose one that is a light color. Black is definitely out of the question as it will absorb too much of the light. A plain white backdrop is best. These are not expensive. However, if you can't afford to purchase one, simply roll up some plain white material and scotch tape it to the wall behind the subject. It may seem tacky, but nobody is going to care or notice. The bottom line is that you want a photo that is clear and sharp.

These are just a few of the many things you can do when it comes to lighting and your digital photos. If you'd like a really great guide to digital photography, check out the review at my blog that you can find in my signature. It has hands down the best resource available, especially if you're not a professional photographer.

To YOUR Photographic Success,

Steven Wagenheim

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